Da er eg tilbake på gamle tomter igjen – i La Crosse, Wisconsin. Og eg skal ikkje nekte for at det er litt rart å vere tilbake. Det er eitt eller anna med redigeringsfunksjonen til minnet mitt som forundrar meg. I denne byen har eg budd i nesten to år til saman, først eit halvanna år i 1986-87, og deretter nokre månader hausten 1992. Og reint mentalt hadde eg eit veldig klart bilete av korleis denne byen skulle sjå ut, og eg hadde store forventningar om eit herleg gjensyn. Og det var triveleg å kome tilbake igjen, det skal eg på ingen måte underslå. Men eg kan ikkje hugse at det kunne vere så surt og kaldt her på ein tidleg septemberdag, at delar av sentrum er eit lite vakkert syn der industribygg og parkeringshus dominerer, at så store delar av sentrumsområda er rydda for hus slik at det blir plass for folk til å setje frå seg bilen sin – ja, at det eigentleg er så daudt her. I det heile, reint estetisk er det ikkje så veldig mykje å gle seg over her i området rundt 3rd street. For i minnet mitt var dette ein liten sjarmerande småby med eit yrande liv og mange trivelege plassar der ein kunne gå for å møte folk og dele ein ”pitcher”. Det gjekk da opp for meg at alle dei gode minna frå denne staden eigentleg er knytt til alle dei trivelege folka som eg vart kjent med, og ikkje sjølve staden. I dag tidleg gjekk eg ein runde i sentrum, men det var svært lite eg kunne nikke gjenkjennande til. Merkeleg, trass alt! Men universitetet fann eg da fram til, men det var også nesten alt. Eg gjekk ein runde i korridorane der, men det var ikkje ei kjent sjel å sjå. I dag var det studiestart her, så det meste var kaos, men lell. Det gamle kontoret mitt var til overmål også fjerna. Men universitetsbokhandelen fann eg, om ein no kan kalle dette ein bokhandel. Joda, eg fekk da kjøpt ei skrivebok og ei penn, men det var også noko av det mest akademiske dei hadde å by på: I realiteten var dette ein klesbutikk, og manefaktur var dei tydelegvis gode på, skjorter og jakker av ymse slag hadde dei plenty av, meter på meter, hylle på hylle. Men eg overdriv ikkje når eg seier at det står fleire bøker på kontoret mitt enn kva dei hadde i denne bokhandelen.
No i tre netter skal eg bu på eit motel midt i sentrum av byen. Der har eg budd eit par netter tidlegare, og eg må seie at om ingen annan stad, så ligg alt til rette for at ein skal kjenne seg igjen her. Rett nok har dei sikkert bytta på senga nokre gonger sidan sist eg var her, men eg trur kanskje at det avgrensar seg til det. For her har dei verkeleg lite som minner om aggressiv iver etter å pusse opp og halde ting i ”shape”. Og ein treng ikkje å drive rominspeksjon a la befal på ein rekruttskole for å sjå at dette ikkje er heilt prima. På gymnaset hadde eg ein kompis som var på ferietur til London, derifrå kom han tilbake med ei hårreisande forteljing om ein pub som heitte Dirty Nelly. Dette skulle vere ei bule som på prinsipielt grunnlag brukte manglande reinhald til å byggje opp eit image og dra til seg dumme turistar. Det kan sjå ut som om dei her på motellet også prøver ut det same konseptet. Her ligg støvlaget tjukt på møblane, i taket heng det lange og store dottar med kongrovev, golvteppet er flekkete, og badet vil eg eigentleg ikkje gå nærare inn på. Det einaste positive eg kan seie om dette etablissementet, er at dei her tenker på miljøet og satsar på kaldvatn i dusjen. Men sjølv om dette motellet på ingen måte er blankpolert, så skal det ikkje nektast for at det kan vere eit og anna interessant å oppleve her også. I kveld vart eg ståande ei lang stund og snakke med ein ”gjestene”, ein gammal dansk-amerikansk veteran frå Vietnam-krigen. Det er tydeleg at livet nok ikkje har stroke alle over kinnet med vakkerhanda.
I dag har eg elles vore i Ferryville, ein liten stad som ligg ein dryg halvtime ned langs Mississippi-dalen. Det må trygt seiast at denne plassen på ingen måte har vore brautande når det gjeld å finne seg plass i landskapet. Der møtte eg to norsk-amerikanarar, ei dame på 94 og ein mann ein stad i 50-åra. Sjølv om begge kunne noko norsk, var det nesten umuleg å få dei på glid, det kom ei og anna setninga no og da. Begge hadde vestnorske røter, men dei forsto knapt kvarandre. Og når dette vart konfrontert med trøndsk apokope og palatalar, var det språkvitskaplege utbyttet litt magert. Forsøka på norskspråkleg samtale kunne til tider minne om ”The Danish language” på youtube. ”Kamelåse!” Eg håper berre at eg ikkje har bestilt 500 gallon med mjølk. Likevel var dette ei retteleg triveleg stund. Det som mangla av språkleg samhandling vart kompensert gjennom musisering. Heimen til 94-åringen var full av musikkinstrument av ymse slag. Og den godt vaksne kona var utruleg vital, trass i litt skrantande helse. Ho var på ingen måte tungbedd som musikant og varta opp med både salmar og jazz på orgel og piano, i tillegg til folkemusikk og sjølvkomponerte slåttar på trekkspell. Også 50-åringen var ein habil musikar med stort teknisk raffinement, han trakterte både gitar og piano på ein eminent måte. Herleg!
Elles har eg ikkje så mykje å berette etter eit døgn i Wisconsin, flyturen over var både lang og kjedeleg, men udramatisk. Det einaste som overraksa meg litt, var reiseruta: vi kom inn over Hudson bay og entra Minneapolis frå nord. Bilturen frå tvillingbyane var også grei. Eg har ein leigebil desse dagane, og amerikanske bilar er gjerne fulle av knappar. Komfort heiter det visst. Så delar av turen gjekk med til å orientere seg i denne knappejungelen. Men eg fann ut av det etter kvart (at handbrekket må vere ein pedal, seier seg jo sjølv, og at den tiande (eller var det tolvte) knappen i panelet på døra er til å opne bagasjerommet, burde eg jo ha teke på intuisjonen). Heldigvis oppgraderte eg bilbestillinga til å omfatte GPS, noko som gjorde at eg kom meg heilskinna ut av storbyen utan eigentleg å vite kor eg var. Til slutt gjekk det opp for meg at GPS-en tok meg gjennom eit amerika-trøndsk landskap som eg burde kjenne veldig godt. Før eg visste ordet av det, passere eg gamle kjenningar i Goodhue county som Wannamingo og Zumbrota, område der mange frå Trøndelag slo seg ned for rundt 150 år sidan, og der eg reiste rundt med bandopptakaren min vinteren 1986-87. Eg får sjå om eg ikkje stikk innom desse plassane på turen heim.
”Og slik går no dagan”, det einaste eg kan føye til, er at eg framleis er temmeleg døgnvill og vaknar tidleg om morgonen. Men delen av naturen min skal eg nok med tida tukte, det føler eg meg nokså trygg på.
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